MAMOIADA, SARDINIA: Between cowbells and masks, observing what is visible to imagine the roots of the invisible

The Mamoiada is a particular region of Sardinia, where you make the festivities with special masks, called Mamuthones Maimones or Mamutzones – http://www.mamuthones.it/ – that I’ve also seen in other parts of Europe, especially in mountainous. While you were immersed into the blue, I watched you, while you were swimming happy, in this corner of paradise of the central eastern coast of the island, but you have missed a wonderful opportunity, to hear from Mrs. Anna – a Sardinian woman I knew in beach – the story of masked men strangely moving, in small rhythmic steps.

That woman, even showed me some photographs, where men burdened by a complex equipment and coated skins of raw wool, shake cowbells, and wear a visor, they perform synchronous twists to the right and to the left. Their leader is called Issohadore, and it is he who decides the time at which the set can make three quick jumps. Sometimes, these “masters” of the ceremony, randomly they choose one person in the audience – usually beautiful girls – catching them with a particular snare, made of woven rattan, called “sa soha.”

Among the photographs, Mrs. Anna showed me those that portray Mamuthones, figures that have an entirely different task from that of their leader. They, in fact, remain in silence near their Issohadore, but stare insistently those who observe them, as if to hypnotize. On the sand, this courteous woman proudly showed me the way in which the characters of the procession must go: 12 Mamuthones are arranged in two parallel rows, while Issohadores are very mobile, in front, behind or on the sides of the parade.

Anna was very kind, because he also gave us his phone number and email address – which I have transcribed on our travel notebook – us by inviting her for the upcoming carnival. When we said our goodbyes, the world of masks Mamoiada was no longer a secret to me, because I knew  recognize the black masks and white ones, Mamuthones of Issohadores (both related to the face with small leather straps, but strangely enveloped by a handkerchief female). The body of men who fit with black masks, is wrapped in the skins of black sheep, and on their backs have a myriad of bells. The Heads – the Issohadores – have a hat called “berritta“, a red waistcoat, trousers and white shirt, small bells sewn on a bandolier, shawl, black leggings and boots.

We decided to visit Sardinia at the threshold of summer, but we should observe these curious set during the period of carnival, dedicating at least one day to observe the “procession danced”, where not only you can hear the din of bells, but it is curious to see even eat and drink those disturbing figures, under masks that hide the pride of the island and an appetite for the good things to savor.