Meeting Benches World art in all forms
Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso: synthesis of the pictorial currents of the early twentieth century
“Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso, a pioneer of Portuguese modern art, will be the protagonist of our next author’s journey. I’ll meet you on Friday, September fifth, at nine in the morning in front of Pastéis de Belém in Lisbon.” The WhatsApp message didn’t catch you unprepared; you were certain that the Italian who accompanies you on his author’s journeys would have proposed some new destination. To avoid being unprepared for the meeting, you document the essentials on the first page of a new diary: “Born into a family from the north of Portugal, Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso soon showed an early artistic talent. In 1906, he moved to Paris, where he came into contact with the most innovative artistic currents of the time. He formed friendships with key figures such as Pablo Picasso, Umberto Boccioni, Amedeo Modigliani, and Constantin Brâncuși. That intense interaction was fundamental to his artistic evolution. Returning to Portugal in 1914, he continued to paint and married, but his promising career was interrupted by the Spanish flu pandemic, which took him away prematurely at the age of only 30. Initially, the work of Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso was influenced by Post-Impressionism and Fauvism, characterized by a vibrant use of color and a free brushstroke. During his stay in Paris, he was influenced by Cubism, but he also absorbed the energy and dynamism of Futurism. Returning to Portugal, he developed a unique and unclassifiable style, distinguished by geometric forms and intense colors.”
A lover of every shade of beauty, the Italian at Meeting Benches has kept his promise: he awaits you at the exit of Lisbon airport with a smile and a half-smoked Tuscan cigar resting against his ear. Your curiosity, however, is captured by the piece of paper he is holding in his hands: “Pastel de nata or bacalhau à brás?” Intrigued, you ask him what it means. “A dish that reminds you of Portugal? Without a doubt, pastel de nata! These delicious custard tarts are a true Portuguese icon. Crispy on the outside, with a soft and creamy filling, they are perfect to enjoy with a strong coffee.” You see him hesitate for a moment, as if he were evaluating several culinary perspectives. Then, with a slight smile, he continues: “However, since it’s almost dinner time, bacalhau à brás is a fantastic choice. A comfort food full of flavors: dried and salted cod, mixed with fried potatoes and scrambled eggs. A heart-warming dish.” The custard tarts displayed in the window of Pastéis de Belém have distracted you and the new question from the Italian has caught you off guard. You don’t know what to say to him; you have no musical memories linked to a trip to Portugal. You spread your arms, give a stereotypical smile and hope he will suggest something, as indeed happens. “Amália Rodrigues’ Fado Português could be perfect. Fado is the musical soul of the country, steeped in melancholy and nostalgia, just like the sunsets we will see from a terrace in Lisbon. If instead you want something more energetic, A Minha Casinha by Xutos & Pontapés is a festive hymn that is sung in moments of joy and sharing.”
The regret of not having tasted a pastel de nata accompanies you to the Jerónimos Monastery. During the walk, in five minutes the left-handed globetrotter anticipates what you will see. “The Jerónimos Church, erected in the 16th century to celebrate Vasco da Gama’s discovery of the sea route to India, is an example of Manueline architecture, a Portuguese style that blends Gothic, Renaissance, and Mudéjar elements.” Inside, you discover that the church is adorned with intricate stone sculptures and a Gothic vaulted ceiling. “It also houses the tombs of Vasco da Gama and other prominent Portuguese figures,” the guide points out. Upon leaving the church, you notice the golden light of dawn spreading over the red roofs of Alfama. A crisp air, imbued with the salty scent of the ocean, caresses your face. As you walk, you hear from the left-handed lover of beauty something you will admire in twenty minutes. “Beautiful from the outside, but I hope not to find the usual absurd crowd. The Belém Tower, immersed in water and reaching out over the river like a vessel, has a particular charm.” You have arrived, you admire the extraordinary fusion of history and architecture that stands near the Tagus River. It might reward you with panoramic views and medieval vibes. You ask the Italian how to get up the tower. “Ah, the internal ramp of the Belém Tower! Of course, we can go up, gently and step by step, along an elegant stone spiral.” Climbing the internal ramp is a small journey through time. You savor the history at every step and peek out from the narrow embrasures that offer different glimpses of the sparkling river.
Upon leaving the Belém Tower, a pleasant feeling of languor washes over both of you. Not knowing the way to reach the renowned food truck Ostras Sobre Rodas, you confidently rely on the Italian guide and embark on a walk along the wide Avenida Brasília. The imposing Discoveries Monument serves as an unmistakable landmark: it’s impossible to get lost. “They erected it in 1960,” the guide specifies, while sniffing the air and peering with a knowing smile in the opposite direction, “to commemorate the 5th centenary of the death of Henry the Navigator. And if you’ve never tasted fresh oysters, not far away you’ll find an unforgettable culinary experience, a true explosion of seafood flavors!” A few minutes later, you discover with pleasure that the delightful food truck, strategically positioned with a charming view of the sparkling sea, accompanies its delicacies with a selection of refreshing drinks typical of the region. While savoring the fleshy and flavorful oysters, intoxicated by the sea breeze and the panorama, you jot something down in your travel diary: “The oysters were of unparalleled freshness, the setting simply perfect, and the atmosphere permeated with a unique simplicity.” Turning your gaze to your companion, his radiant expression and eyes shining with genuine pleasure clearly reveal his unconditional love for this exquisite seafood.
Your guide seems to have an idea in mind. He scans the street, weighing two color schemes that catch his eye. “When looking for a taxi in Lisbon, remember that there are two officially authorized color schemes,” he informs you. “There’s cream, which has become the most common since the 1990s, but you can also come across traditional taxis, with a black bottom and a light green top.” Sitting comfortably in a classic black and green taxi, your left-handed guide gives you a little advance information about your destination during the thirty-minute journey to Livraria Bertrand in the heart of Chiado. “With more than fifty bookshops spread across the country and a well-stocked online bookshop, Bertrand prides itself on being the oldest and largest bookshop chain in Portugal. There you’ll find not only the bestsellers of the moment, but also a wide and varied selection of books to satisfy every literary curiosity.” With a hint of pride, the guide shares a detail about his interests: “I will look for 1000 Books of Poetry: Vol. 1, by Armando J. Nieves, an immersion in life through wisdom and feelings. And a collection of fifty poems that I hope will help me broaden my mental horizons. I do not want to limit creativity; my real goal is to spread it everywhere, one bench at a time, one person at a time, just as I have been doing for almost twelve years.”
“I’ve taken care of booking two rooms at the guesthouse Casa do Barão, a residence housed in an elegant 18th-century townhouse. The property is just a five-minute walk from here, which will allow us to easily reach that corner of history and charm.” Silence gives consent, he thinks, therefore, he continues. “Once settled in, we could allow ourselves a moment of well-deserved rest and perhaps change our clothes to prepare for the evening. I believe that a dinner accompanied by the poignant music of Fado is an unmissable experience during our stay in Lisbon, a true emotional journey into the beating heart of Portuguese culture. Fado, more than just a musical genre, is the expression of the Lusitanian soul, imbued with saudade, a complex feeling that mixes nostalgia, melancholy, lost love, and a vague longing. Tonight, we will have the opportunity to experience this authentic art form firsthand. It will be a way to understand the spirit of Portugal more deeply, letting ourselves be transported by the emotions that only Fado can evoke.”
“We are in Lisbon!”, your guide emphasizes, waiting for you at the reception with almost solemn emphasis. For the first time impeccably dressed in a jacket and tie since you began following her on her signature itineraries. “Therefore, we absolutely cannot deprive ourselves of a dinner that celebrates the true essence of this city: an authentic evening of Fado!”. With an eloquent gesture, she continues: “If you agree, I suggest you immerse yourself in the unique atmosphere of Canto do Poeta. There you will have the opportunity to discover the richness of traditional Portuguese cuisine, intertwined with the passion and folklore of Fado, all in an unforgettable evening!”. After a pleasant taxi ride of about thirty minutes, you reach your destination and see with your own eyes that what was promised is reality: an immersive experience that blends authentic flavors and touching melodies thanks to an inviting fixed menu accompanied by engaging live music. “The staff were incredibly attentive and thoughtful to all our needs,” you note enthusiastically in your diary of Portuguese wonders, “and the singers and musicians managed to convey a palpable emotion with every note! A truly excellent experience and highly recommended.”
“From Lisbon to Amarante, we’ll experience a road trip with the Nomad Pop Top I rented, complete with a kitchenette and an integrated bathroom with a toilet and shower. Thanks to the pop-up roof and a double bed in the back, it can accommodate up to four people.” A new first for you, you consider. Not wanting to disappoint the Tuscan smoker, you reply in a conciliatory tone, “I’ll be spoiled for choice.” Along the way, taking turns driving the Weinsberg camper van, the Italian explains something about a museum that celebrates the artistic heritage of Amarante. “It plays a crucial role in promoting the appreciation of the innovative artistic vision and the role that a painter native to this area had in the European avant-garde,” the Italian Tuscan cigar smoker anticipates. Entering the Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso Museum in Amarante, you note that the life and work of the homonymous Portuguese modernist painter of the 20th century, who debuted in the nearby town of Manhufe, are showcased. In the renovated spaces of the former Dominican convent of São Gonçalo, you see firsthand Amadeo’s contribution to Portuguese modernism. “The oil on canvas you’re looking at, a landscape enclosed in 50 x 73 cm, was created around 1910 and later donated to the museum by his wife Lúcia.” The portrait of Francisco Ferreira Cardoso – oil on cardboard 33.6 x 27 cm, around 1913 – was also donated by her,” explains the left-handed guide. “And that one, instead?” your prompt, intrigued by the strange character with a glass in his hand. “Ratty? an oil on cardboard from 1915, 38.5 x 37 cm, also a donation from a woman who became a widow too soon.” You have returned the camper in Porto and said goodbye for a new author’s trip. You are waiting for the plane that will take you back to everyday life and you do not expect to read a WhatsApp message from your guide: “The essential is invisible to the eyes”. You know that it is by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, you remember having read it in his famous book, “The Little Prince.”
Initially influenced by Post-Impressionism and Fauvism, during his stay in Paris he was not only influenced by Cubism, but also absorbed the energy and dynamism of Futurism. Upon his return to Portugal, Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso developed his own style characterized by geometric shapes and intense colors. Dastilige Nevante, a digital artist who creates evocative and conceptually stimulating works, with an eye for his technique and an affinity for surreal atmospheres, interprets the style of Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso, the painter who came into contact with the most innovative artistic currents of the time.
