THE OCEAN’S PATH

Poetry and Culture of the French Pacific Islands

You’re intrigued by the idea of an escape, something that allows you to turn the page. You’re not thinking about a honeymoon, but rather forgetting one with a journey far from the chaos of the world—a refuge where time seems to slow down. “The beaches, the vivid colors of the sea, and the unspoiled nature of French Polynesia offer a change of scenery, a chance to rediscover myself. It’s as if the tropical landscapes speak of new possibilities and healing, creating space to leave the past behind.” You consider the reasons why this archipelago might be the destination that reflects your current state of mind. “White sands, crystal-clear waters, and lagoons in countless shades of blue, perfect for swimming, snorkeling, or simply relaxing. A rich and vibrant culture, with traditional dances, captivating music, and the iconic charm. Additionally, the locals are warm and welcoming.” Beyond the beaches, you know you’ll find lush mountains, spectacular waterfalls, and botanical gardens. You’re aware that Bora Bora and Tahiti are famous, but you wish for your sadness to meet with lesser-known islands. You might stay in overwater bungalows, explore coral reefs, dive with sharks and rays, or marvel at unforgettable sunsets. “No hotel reservation. I want to choose with my own eyes the perfect place to disconnect from the past.”

You’ve mentally compiled a list of books that will enrich your journey to the enchanting French Polynesia, blending compelling stories with reflections inspired by the locale. “These three books will be perfect for alternating moments of reading under the palm trees with immersions into nature and local culture.” The first on the list is “Oviri, Wild Woman“, the autobiography of the renowned painter Paul Gauguin, where he narrates his experience in Tahiti and his desire to live in harmony with nature. Next is “The Great Polynesian Navigation” by André Singer, a work that offers a historical and cultural overview of the extraordinary navigation skills of the Polynesians—a perfect read to better understand the local culture. Finally, “Poems in French Polynesia” by Eme Eidson, a collection of poems capturing the essence and beauty of the islands. “It will be a precious companion during my stay, helping me immerse myself in the spirit of the islands through evocative verses.” You couldn’t resist the temptation to write your own poem on the book’s back cover, “The Call of the Atoll“: The palms whisper your name to the wind, a sweet lament echoing in the lagoon, mirror of a misty sky, scattered shells, pearls of a faded memory. Within the ring of sand and coral, the scent of an eternal summer embraces the memory of a broken dance. The waves bring back the sound of your laughter, and the heart refuses to resign. I hope to find you again one day, my love. We will share new starry nights under the southern sky. I’ll search for your face among the constellations, listening to the song of the whales, ancient guardians of our sea.

During the long flight, you promise yourself to listen to a soundtrack that will accompany your regenerative experience. Among your choices are the works of Barthélémy Tugarue Arakino, a guitarist and ukulele player, a talented singer-songwriter well-known in French Polynesia. His lively and joyful music, deeply tied to the local culture, promises to be the perfect complement to your journey. You’ve also included songs by Jacques Brel, one of the greatest interpreters of modern chanson, an artist who spent the final years of his life on the very island you’re about to discover—Hiva Oa. There, he lived far from the spotlight, dedicating himself to sailing and the local community. He was buried alongside the grave of painter Paul Gauguin on that same island. Their choice reflects a shared love for nature and freedom, one you deeply resonate with, to the point of imagining yourself being rejuvenated in that remote corner of the world. “Essential are the songs of Angelo Neuffer, a Tahitian singer-songwriter born in Raiatea, considered one of the most prolific Polynesian artists.” Among his masterpieces, you’ve selected “Poti’i no te mau Motu” and “Hoho’a o teie ao”. You know listening to his music will be an emotional journey, capable of transporting you to the heart of the spirit of French Polynesia. You won’t forgo the Ori Tahiti, the traditional dance whose fluid and rhythmic movements can connect you with the land, the sea, and the ancestral spirits.

“Don’t Leave Me” by Jacques Brel holds a special meaning for you in this moment. Listening to it again, you realize how much it is a plea—a cry from a soul begging not to be abandoned. “It expresses love, pain, despair, and humiliation. It conveys an emotional depth that resonates with the kinds of experiences that refuse to let go of me.” With his unique voice, capable of revealing both vulnerability and strength, Brel conveys authentic emotions. “What he calls love actually seems like a form of tenderness.” You begin to understand that concept more deeply, as it aligns with your way of loving. “I am listening to a universal symbol of love—passionate and heartrending.” You are aware that the song was born during a time of personal crisis for Brel, a dimension that intensifies the emotional depth you already perceive. His international acclaim testifies to his talent for touching the deepest chords of the human soul. You pause the audio and reflect on a quote from Paul Gauguin: “I am strong because I am never swayed by others, and what I do is for myself.” A statement that seems to speak directly to your inner search.

French Polynesia spans an area as vast as Europe. The Society Islands, including Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Moorea, are among the most famous destinations. The Tuamotu Islands, on the other hand, enchant with paradisiacal lagoons celebrated worldwide. While the Gambier and Austral Islands are fascinating, they don’t spark your interest. Not all the islands are inhabited, yet each possesses a unique and distinctive charm. Among the Marquesas Islands, one in particular exerts a mysterious pull on you: Hiva Oa. Known for its untamed nature and its connection to Paul Gauguin, it already promises you unique emotions. “Papeete will be the gateway for my international flight, the ideal hub for reaching other islands in the archipelago.” You book a ticket for Tahiti Faa’a International Airport and schedule a stopover at Atuona Airport, on Hiva Oa. “Gauguin and Brel chose it as their refuge. Who knows if it will leave the same mark on me.” With its captivating mix of nature, culture, and history, that island has already won your heart. You promise yourself to visit the “Paul Gauguin Cultural Center” and the museum dedicated to Jacques Brel. Between the graves of the two artists at Calvary Cemetery, you will discover lush forests, with black sand beaches and majestic cliffs beneath them. You are fascinated by the idea of touching Polynesian statues carved in stone. You can already picture yourself there with at least one Tatau. More than just an aesthetic ornament, the tattoo tells a story tied to identity. You hope to find your own.

“Of course, Polynesian poetry is rich with evocative imagery and a deep connection to nature, an endless source of inspiration, with detailed descriptions of landscapes, the sea, flora, and fauna.” The features of the Polynesian speaking to you reflect the environmental influences of the islands where he lives. You would like to know more, yet he seems to read your thoughts and introduces himself. “Nice to meet you! Manava, I am Manava, which means ‘welcome’ and symbolizes the joy that comes with birth. In Tahitian tradition, a child is given the same name as a grandparent or great-grandparent. It’s a way to honor ancestry. It’s said that names are often revealed to parents in dreams or whispered by the wind.” Manava’s dark brown complexion and thick, wavy dark hair highlight his almond-shaped eyes. “Tall, with high cheekbones and a strong jaw. Certainly, a handsome man,” you confide to yourself. As your plane begins its descent to Atuona Airport, Manava talks to you about their connection to the spiritual world and ancestors. “Waves, currents, and their creatures make the sea a source of life and mystery. The mountains, however, symbols of strength and stability, are connected to the mysterious. You won’t be able to resist loving the lush vegetation that is coming to greet you.”

“Hanaiapa is the corner of paradise where I have chosen to live. If you’re looking for accommodation, you can rent the bungalow next to my house, which I share with my mother, an excellent cook. You can join us for the ahu ceremony, a traditional meal that brings people together in a moment of sharing and gratitude. Taking part in this ritual can be a moment of forgiveness and reconciliation—with your group, your family, or even yourself.” The symbol of two overlapping waves, which Manava tattoos on the inside of your right wrist, together with the ahu ritual, reflects the deep spiritual connection of the Polynesians, where forgiveness is seen as a step toward both inner and outer harmony. In Hanaiapa, life follows the natural rhythm of the sun and sea. With his kindness, Manava will guide you to discover Te I’ipona and the majestic Tiki Takaii, the largest statue in French Polynesia. At the Calvary Cemetery, among the graves of Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel, you can contemplate a breathtaking panorama and let yourself be enveloped by the beauty. “Today, I visited the Paul Gauguin Cultural Center and the Espace Jacques Brel,” you write in your diary. “Tomorrow, I will go to Hanatekuua Beach, an oasis of peace far from the tourist routes.” In this magical and authentic place, you have found the strength to forgive those who hurt you.

Spend your last night on the beach of Hanaiapa. Under the moonlight, the sound of the surf creates a profound connection with nature. You listen to the rhythm of the waves crashing and receding, like a breath. Manava seems to sense your thoughts. “The surf speaks in an ancient, intimate, and consoling language. Think of it as a balm for the soul, a moment when everything slows down and invites you to reflect.” The moonlight adds a magical touch, making the world feel suspended between dream and reality. Manava shares a story of those who came before. “Paul Gauguin had experiences here that mirrored his unconventional spirit. He built a house-studio right here on Hiva Oa, reflecting his desire to live free from conventions. He spent the last years of his life here, devoted to painting and writing, striving to capture the essence of this place in his works. His paintings celebrate the beauty and spirituality of Polynesian nature, capturing the essence of a distant and fascinating world.” In your travel diary, you jot down your final poem. “The Weight of Forgiveness: The wound burns, silent fire, A bitter and pungent memory. I am a shell of wounded pride, housing a withered monster.”